One recurring complaint among editors is that fashion, of late, has felt a bit “blah”. As brands seek to mitigate risk, many have taken a conservative path, focusing on their iconic pieces or offering commercially viable and subtle styles (in a bid to reach shoppers looking to invest in more classic, timeless products). Yet, while it is natural to find comfort in the familiar, clinging to old ways can hinder innovation and creativity.
Re-editions and remakes of popular products have contributed, in part, to growth in the second-hand market (which is no bad thing); D’Arpizio observes that “the same bags, shoes and clothes” can be found in both new and secondary channels. Meanwhile, younger generations are also consuming in ways that feel “more respectful to the environment”.
Big changes in luxury’s creative leadership could help to renew excitement. Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy, Tom Ford, Celine, Lanvin and Calvin Klein are among the labels with new designers set to make debuts. Fendi, Margiela, Helmut Lang and Carven, which are without a creative director, will need to fill those slots. And there are still question marks around whether Dior, Loewe and Gucci will make new appointments or continue forward with their current designers.
PEOPLE WILL REDISCOVER THE JOY OF DRESSING
After a period of “stealth wealth” dressing, in which people adopted a more classic, pared-back (borderline basic) look, and following the unavoidable influence of algorithms on social media platforms such as TikTok, which meant that the same trends were adopted on a global scale, Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter’s fashion director Kay Barron is hopeful for a return to personal style in which “character and individuality comes to the forefront”.