In my earlier reflections on Bak Chor Mee, I expressed that Bak Chor Mee merits recognition as a distinct category. It should not be merely being classified as a variant of Mee Pok Tar. I’ve observed nother phenomenon. Most Bak Chor Mee hawkers would insist that they are selling Bak Chor Mee and not Mee Pok Tar. But those selling Mee Pok Tar usually don’t mind if you call their dish Bak Chor Mee!
Even as I continue to mull over this seemingly trivial matter, it has also become clear that Bak Chor Mee itself can be categorized into two distinct types. There’s the traditional Bak Chor Mee, where you have different porky parts displayed on top of a mound of lardy, chillified mee pok (flat noodles). And there’s its soup variant, which is quite distinct from its dry counterpart.
Background to the Soup Version Bak Chor Mee
The most famous stalls serving the soup version of Bak Chor Mee are the two stalls at Fengshan Food Centre and 58 Minced Meat Noodles along Upper Changi Road. Owner of the latter stall decided to retire last year. These bowls of Bak Chor Mee are characteristically served with mee kia (thin noodles) in a clear soup with swirling pork precipitate, friable minced pork, and giao (pork dumpling).
This “giao” is the one item that distinguishes this form of Bak Chor Mee from the rest. Although many mee pok stalls would be happy to sell you a bowl of noodles in a pork-based soup, only the most traditional ones will still include the giao.
Tracing the 100 year legacy
This particular soup version is also more commonly seen around the eastern part of the island, and there is a good reason for it. The stalls can be traced back to Mr. Tan Lian Hock, who arrived in Singapore in 1923 and started peddling his soup noodles around the Kampung Chai Chee area.
In those days, he was plying his trade with a pole and two baskets which caused him to develop a hunch. Hence it was also known as hunchback noodles!
Mr. Tan’s son (2nd Gen) helped him run the stall in Kampung Chai Chee while his daughter (Mrs Sim) sold the noodles along Changi Ten Mile Road. Subsequently, relatives of the two siblings went on to open the two stalls at Fengshan Food Centre. From there, the next generation (3rd generation) spread out to open various stalls around the Tampines, Bedok and Eunos.
One of these entrepreneurs was Ler Jie Wei’s grandfather (Mr Sim), who started selling bak chor mee in the 1980s at the previous Eunos market. They were forced to move to the present coffeeshop in 1990 following a massive fire. Eventually, Jie Wei’s mom, Madam Sim Bee Yong, 62 took over the running of the stall.
Jie Wei, who had been working in the banking industry, decided to quit his job to join the family business to preserve his family’s culinary heritage. His mom was at first very much against it, but eventually, gave in to his persistence.
He opened his first stall at Lucky Plaza in 2017 and operated it until 2020. He subsequently returned to Eunos to modernize its operations and has since opened four stalls. Even then, he is still very much hands-on. When I made an unannounced visit, I caught him at work, dishing out the noodles himself!
Their Signature Bak Chor Mee
Their signature bowl is mee kia (thin noodles) in a clear pork bone broth with minced pork and giao (dumplings). He has deliberately kept it very traditional and simple, the way his grandfather did it. When the dish is so simple, it is essential to focus on the quality of the ingredients.
He uses only fresh minced pork and the best quality ti por (fried solefish) to fill the dumplings. His noodles are still made by the same noodle maker according to his family recipe. What gives the soup its unique flavour is also the use of garlic oil, and Chinese celery.
Their giao filling is very good especially when you bite into a piece of the fragrant solefish. The skin is a tad thick, but at these prices, you really can’t expect too much. The soup is also very sweet and robust and makes for a very satisfying meal. 4.25/5
Conclusion
There are not many stalls that can trace their legacy back 100 years! It is good to see a fifth-generation hawker who is still so dedicated to preserving the family legacy. The bak chor mee soup here is still very old school in its simplicity. The giao (dumplings) set them apart from other bak chor mee stalls. If you’re missing 58 minced meat noodles, then this is where you can find your bowl of bak chor mee soup, which shares the same lineage!
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