Inspired by the maison’s rich heritage, the Bouton d’Or automaton pays tribute to the eponymous jewellery collection, reimagining the gentle contours of the iconic paillette motif introduced by Van Cleef & Arpels in the mid-1930s.
The Bouton d’Or automaton demanded an exceptional level of precision and technical expertise. Countless gold components were meticulously hand finished, with various polishing techniques employed to bring out the lustre of the precious metal. Whether concave or convex, the paillettes come to life, forming intricate creations such as a radiant, gold-bound bouquet. The soft pink tones of the thulite base perfectly complement the delicate violet shades of the charoite bowl. This creation, a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, features 684 caps or discs, each meticulously lacquered with a combination of airbrushing and traditional techniques to enhance the brilliance of every colour, then carefully hand-assembled on slender, wispy stems.
At Watches and Wonders 2024 in Geneva, we chatted with Junod, who offered a rare glimpse into the artistry and challenges each automaton presents. He also revealed his favourite piece from this year’s launch and spoke about collaborating on a special piece with a Singaporean company.
How long did it take to create the Apparition des Baies and Bouton d’Or automata?
Each automaton took about 15 months to create, so it was a total of two and a half years to complete both. Just five or six years ago, however, completing a single automaton would have required nearly two years. This lengthy timeline was primarily due to the back-and-forth between workshops. Even the smallest adjustments to the jewellery elements required a trip from Sainte-Croix, Switzerland, where I’m based, to Van Cleef & Arpels’ workshops in Paris and back. Over time, as we collaborated on more pieces, the maison established a dedicated space within my atelier. Now, minor modifications can be made on-site, and I can provide immediate feedback to the artisans, streamlining the entire creation process. This allows us to make necessary changes or modifications, and provide immediate feedback directly on-site, significantly streamlining the creation process and saving a considerable amount of time.