Located on the mezzanine floor in Damansara Uptown, M Dining offers an unexpected and innovative twist on traditional Thai cuisine.
Spearheaded by Malaysian chef Wilson Teh, who recently returned after a long culinary stint in Melbourne, the restaurant aims to redefine how Malaysians experience Thai food.
Wilson’s journey in the food and beverage industry spans over 20 years, with a significant portion spent in Australia, where he honed his skills in contemporary Thai cuisine. His restaurant, M Dining, is about reimagining Thai flavours in a modern context.
From kitchenhand to award-winning chef
Wilson Teh’s culinary story is nothing short of inspiring. Originally in Melbourne for tertiary studies, his love for cooking was ignited while working part-time in restaurants.
It wasn’t long before he found himself at Longrain, a renowned restaurant in Melbourne known for its innovative take on Thai cuisine. Starting as a kitchenhand, Wilson climbed the ranks over seven years, becoming one of the chefs in charge.
Longrain’s modern approach to Thai dishes was where he first experimented with balancing traditional Thai flavours with contemporary techniques.
His work also earned accolades from prestigious publications, including the Australian Good Food Guide and the Herald Sun Delicious 100 in 2018.
“Working at Longrain gave me a deep appreciation for the art of blending flavours,” Wilson to Vulcan Post. “We made all our sauces and pastes from scratch, which is a principle I’ve carried over to M Dining.”
A personal and culinary journey
Returning to Malaysia in 2022, Wilson was driven by two primary goals: to be closer to family and to realise his dream of opening a restaurant.
With his wife expecting their second child, Mabel, the timing seemed perfect to make the transition back home.
“I wanted to bring what I learnt in Melbourne to the Malaysian food scene,” he shares. And thus, M Dining was born.
The name “M Dining” holds significant meaning for Wilson. While “M” stands for the mezzanine floor where the restaurant is located, it also reflects many personal elements.
“M” represents Muar, the town where he grew up, Melbourne, where he learnt his trade, his late father Kon Ming, and his two children, Marcus and Mabel. All of these ‘M’s came together to form the identity of M Dining.
“I didn’t want a traditional Thai restaurant name because I didn’t want customers coming in with preconceived notions of what Thai food should be. M Dining is all about surprising the palate,” Wilson explained.
What’s on the menu?
One of the first things that stands out at M Dining is its promise of “Thai food reimagined”.
Wilson is clear that while the essence of traditional Thai cuisine remains, the dishes are presented with modern flair and unexpected flavour pairings.
The restaurant’s dishes blend fresh local ingredients with premium imports, creating a fusion that still pays homage to Thai roots but with a twist.
“We don’t just serve the usual Thai dishes. For example, our signature Soft Shell Crab Slider comes with house-made tom yum mayo, offering a new way to enjoy classic flavours.”
“And our Symphony of Flavors: Thai-Korean Fusion Basil Chicken Bibimbap, is my take on Thai-Korean fusion,” he said with pride.
For first-time customers, Wilson recommends trying the Scallop Betel Leaf, a fresh take on a classic Thai snack, or the Panang Curry Lamb Shank, which features slow-cooked Australian lamb in a roasted peanut curry. These dishes reflect the modern-meets-traditional philosophy that defines M Dining.
An interesting backstory that illustrates M Dining’s adaptability is how the popular Thai soup, Tom Yum, became a staple on the menu.
“We didn’t originally include Tom Yum in our menu. But nine out of 10 customers asked for it. Eventually, we gave in to customer demand, and now, it’s one of our bestsellers,” Wilson shared.
It was a valuable lesson in balancing innovation with customer preferences.
“Customer feedback is vital,” he emphasised. “We still make it a point to interact with guests and gather their thoughts. It helps us improve and adapt while staying true to our concept.”
Challenges in the Malaysian F&B scene
Opening a restaurant in Malaysia, particularly in the saturated Thai cuisine market, has its challenges.
One of the most frequent questions Wilson gets is whether his chef is from Thailand, a sign of how ingrained traditional Thai food expectations are in the local market.
“We also faced challenges with our location. Being on the mezzanine floor, we had to work hard to get people in the door,” Wilson admitted.
Marketing was key, and M Dining took to social media to build a presence. The restaurant’s beautiful dish presentations lend themselves well to platforms like Instagram, where diners are increasingly driven by visuals.
“In Malaysia, people eat with their eyes first. We were advised to include food photos on our menu, which was a great tip,” Wilson said with a chuckle.
Bigger dreams for M Dining
Although M Dining is still relatively new, having opened just over a year ago, it’s already gaining recognition.
The restaurant recently received the Thai Select award from Thailand’s Department of International Trade Promotion, a significant accolade for a non-traditional Thai eatery.
“We’re thrilled about the recognition,” Wilson said, “But our bigger ambition is to one day earn a Michelin star.”
Wilson also hints at expanding the concept of modern Thai cuisine to reach more diners, whether through new locations or different dining formats.
“It’s not just about food; it’s about the overall experience. From our customisable set menus for special occasions to our theatrical six-course meals, we aim to offer more than just a meal. We want every guest to leave with a memorable dining experience,” he said.
For Wilson Teh, M Dining is more than just a restaurant—it’s the culmination of years of learning, hard work, and passion. His journey from kitchenhand to head chef is a testament to the power of persistence and innovation.
While the Malaysian F&B scene may be competitive, M Dining is carving out its niche with its unique take on Thai cuisine.
So, if you’re in the mood for something different, something that reimagines Thai flavours while offering a modern dining experience, M Dining can be on your list.
- You can learn more about M Dining here.
- Read other articles we’ve written about Malaysian startups here.
Featured Image Credit: M Dining