[Review] Picaro KL, Spanish restaurant led by Chef Kim Hock Su

Watching your boss take two shots in succession—straight from a bottle—changes something in you. 

But let’s backtrack.

We found ourselves at Nam Kok Hotel one afternoon, where the famous Suzie Wong is. We weren’t there for her, though.

No, we were there for a brand-new bar and restaurant called Picaro, and here’s something to know before you go yourself: Expect the unexpected.

When great minds come together

If I said that the chefs at Picaro absolutely cooked and served, you’d think, “That’s what they’re meant to do anyway!”

Well, yes, but as a Gen Z, I mean that in more than the literal sense.

Picaro is hands-down the most fun restaurant I’ve ever had the pleasure of dining in.

The chefs were dancing and singing, servers were taking shots with guests, and above all, the food was scrumptious. Need I say more?

Credit for bringing the concept to life goes to Rhombus Connexion, whose new baby Picaro falls perfectly into the group’s impressive portfolio consisting of The Beer Factory, Michelin-recognised Dancing Fish, Suzie Wong, and more.

The Spanish-inspired menu with Malaysian influences leaves nothing to be desired, and that’s because behind it is the chef patron of one Michelin-starred Au Jardin in Penang. 

Chef Kim Hock Su, or Su, is making his mark in Klang Valley as Culinary Director of Picaro, so definitely come with high expectations. We did, and glad to say, they were met.

A pairing as old as time

Anyone who’s been to Vaso in Bangkok may think that Picaro sounds awfully familiar. And yes, the similarities are there. Michelle, co-founder of Picaro, acknowledged that it’s part of what inspired their own take on the fun concept.

But beyond that, she added, “The idea behind Picaro came from those after-hours industry hangouts we had as restaurateurs—with the hosting chef whipping up whatever dishes they feel like in the kitchen, enjoying it with friends, drinks, and music.”

It’s all about letting loose and putting the kitchen team at the heart of the party.

Once they had the concept, Michelle told Vulcan Post that they knew Su was the one to bring it to life, as long-time admirers of his work and after trying his creations at Un Poco Loco.

“It wasn’t an easy conversation,” she admitted, “but with lots of good food, we are glad that Chef Su decided to join us.”

While not as intricately designed as sister brand Suzie Wong, Picaro absolutely keeps up the high-energy nightlife vibes.

The main dining space is U-shaped, surrounding an open kitchen where chefs grill, prep, and dance right in front of you.

I can’t blame them for busting out some moves on the kitchen floor, because Picaro’s DJ was truly bringing the heat, and will be there on weekday and weekend nights.

Seats are arranged in such a way that you can’t not talk to the person next to you, and that’s what is at the core of Picaro—socialisation over good food.

It’s a pairing as old as time, and one that aligns with Su’s vision.

Good food at the heart of it all

“Picaro’s menu was born from the love of Spanish food but with a slight local spin on it, many of the dishes will remind one of Spain as well as Southeast Asia,” Su told Vulcan Post.

“The objective is to blur the lines of both heritages so that it may provoke our diners to have conversation about the flavours at hand.”

I hope the menu is exciting to their palate, induces them to think about each flavour and discussions can be raised and a conversation starts with the person beside them, all while sitting in the kitchen where other chefs and I have similar conversations.

As for his proudest dishes at Picaro, Su recommended the crab croquettes (which I found had an elevated homey taste) and crab paella (yummy and indulgent).

“They were fun to create as there was more to play with, we do not normally get crabs of that size in Penang,” he said.

But he’s not just enthusiastic about showcasing quality produce—he’s also a believer in being mindful with their creations and processes.

“When creating a dish, instead of taking only the ‘good parts’ of the produce, I ardently encourage to purpose in its entirety.”

“You can surprise one’s self when you experiment on its possibilities. Off cuts and traditional food scraps can shine, if you let them.”

Although this passionate chef runs on “many good cups of coffee, sheer determination, and little-to-no sleep,” Su has some better advice for aspiring F&B entrepreneurs:

1. As much as you wish, you really can’t do it all, so having a trusted team lets you focus on the bigger picture.
2. Go in with your eyes wide open, do your research, and really dig into the details.
3. Enjoy the journey and the results, the time flies by (good and bad).

And on that note, Rhombus Connexion and Su have certainly crafted a space and menu that allow patrons to let loose and enjoy the good times.

At Picaro, nestled away behind several layers of doors is the promise of a good evening, with good companionship and good food.

It is open Wednesday to Sunday, with two sessions available: 6PM to 8.30PM, or 9PM to 11.30PM.

So, swing by if you’ve been finding yourself in need of some flavour and fun in your life.

• Learn more about Picaro here.
• Read about more Malaysian startups here.

Featured Image Credit: Vulcan Post